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Learjetter 03-13-23 11:58 AM

Servicing the Door Lift Assist Assembly
 
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My door lift assist on my '77 NA G model was acting a little hinky, sticking on closing and not fully opening door, and occasionally leaking a little hydraulic fluid. A quick check of the service manual revealed a servicing checklist. As Skymaster jobs go, this one is "easy" and took about an hour to do, start to finish. Lift assist works really well now.
Attached is a PDF servicing guide, for your enjoyment.

mshac 03-13-23 01:57 PM

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Good info LearJetter! The instructions are pretty similar for the 1978-1980 models. Below you will find them, plus another diagram. Interesting that it calls for shop air, not nitrogen, to refill the accumulator.

ljmolina 03-15-23 01:15 PM

Just ordered a set, thanks a lot for this post update!
I just need to find a replacement for the plastic friction sleeve thingamajig...or make one from UHMW polyethylene plastic rod and mill one down.

mshac 03-16-23 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ljmolina (Post 29168)
Just ordered a set, thanks a lot for this post update!
I just need to find a replacement for the plastic friction sleeve thingamajig...or make one from UHMW polyethylene plastic rod and mill one down.

Ordered a set of what? From where? Link?

ljmolina 03-16-23 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mshac (Post 29178)
Ordered a set of what? From where? Link?

The link is in the Door lift assist pdf file from LearJetter, www.airpowerinc.com
I just ordered a set of the o-rings, and seals thats in the pdf for less than $10
($6.22) free shipping.

When I bought N187 from Barry, he replaced the o-rings in the lift assembly awhile back, If I have any issues with it in the future at least I'll have a set of the o-rings on hand.

mshac 03-16-23 02:39 PM

If anyone is going to do this, please document the removal of the interior panels. I know its probably not hard to figure out, but pics beforehand really help to understand the job.

If your door just seems to lag a bit, where you do have some lift but have to use the friction lock to hold it at the top, would a small burst of shop air or nitrogen be appropriate to give it that last little bit of push?

Surprisingly, the manual gives no recommended pressure, just say basically to fill with shop air until the door opens correctly.

ljmolina 03-16-23 04:19 PM

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My service manual says to charge the cylinder 700 psi. But yes, it would be nice to see pictures. Must of been a later update.
Attachment 2887

Kim Geyer 03-16-23 09:31 PM

When I resealed ours I’m thinking I would give it about 525 psi to get the door to raise on its own. But that was my old gauges the only interior I had to remove was the trim around the window behind the door and the aft door trim.

mshac 03-17-23 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ljmolina (Post 29183)
My service manual says to charge the cylinder 700 psi. But yes, it would be nice to see pictures. Must of been a later update.
Attachment 2887

No, its just my reading comprehension skills. I scanned it too fast and saw where they use shop air at the beginning of the procedure. I assumed that was to recharge the accumulator, but if you read further, you see that its not. :(


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