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Unread 09-18-02, 11:56 AM
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George M. Amthor, Jr.
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 258
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Wink Ya but......

It should be getting hot enough to cook the water out no matter... you didn't mention what temp the guage was showing... and you might want to pull the probe on the oil cooler and test it... make sure you have a battery charger on the battery as the system will be up and going... on and off... to see what temp the gauge is showing... but, use a good ground and a small cup of oil with a candy thermo to show what temp the probe is at...

I'll bet it is still too cold.. while the oil is not getting harmed it is not cooking the moisture all the way out of the oil... and bringing it up a notch will probably keep things from rusting... smile... and no the cowl flaps will not be the thing here that we want to control... its more the setting of the veritherm and oil cooler routing... if the engine does not have the temp then something is wrong with the baffeling around the cyc... someone put the wrong ones in with too big a excape hole/slots... when they worked on it... as they are different for different cyc on the engine... yep you can control the temp of each by playing with the outlet slots on the cyc barrel... but, they are set by the manufacture.. in this case cessna... and they have paid some engineer some big bucks to find out what is the best...

Some of the other... you might keep this in mind when you go changing engines ... keep the right baffel on the right cyc... if you get them mixed up.. things are really strange in the temp dept and you could overheat a cyc fromt he get go... or else have one that is runing too cold... and it will rust away... as in this case...

I would suggest that you change the copper gasket on the temp probe .. their cheep... when you do test the oil temp... and make sure you follow the directions for re-installation so you don't over torque the gasket... and it will leak... yep they have a specific way to tighten them back down...

Hope this helps.. G.M> GMAs...
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