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Here's info I posted on another site, which I'll re-post here:
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The Skymaster comes in several versions: Normally Aspirated, Turbo, Pressurized, O2A (military version). If you live in the East and don't fly much beyond the flatlands, a turbo model may simply be extra cost (to find, pay for, and maintain). For those of us in the west like myself who regularly fly IFR over mountains and at night, too, well I didn't even consider a non-turboed version. The turbo versions generally came with factory O2 systems, so they're ready for the higher altitudes. Another choice that can affect turbo or pressurized v. normally aspirated is getting above the weather. In that respect you may want turbos or pressurization no matter where you live. There is a large difference in service ceiling between turbo and pressurized versions. To the best of my knowledge, the pressurized versions are restricted to a certififed service ceiling of 20,000 feet. The turbo models range from 33,000 feet in the earlier ones like my 1967 T337B down to (I believe) 25,000 for the later models. On the other hand, if you want to fly higher in a turbo you have to wear a mask and deal with keeping your O2 tank(s) filled. With the pressurized models you don't need to wear a mask and you can get over "most" of the weather at 20,000 feet under normal conditions.
Another consideration is de-icing. The turbo and pressurized models are often deiced. Note, however, that none of the Skymasters are certified for "known" icing. As with other kinds of airplanes, if the A/C has been plumbed for but does not actually have deice boots installed it isn't too outrageous to have them added. If it isn't even plumbed then you're probably better off just finding one that already has boots.
Engine TBO (time between overhauls) is about 1400 hours; engines often run longer. Lenders consider engine time strongly. That could be considered shorter than others, but since the Hobbs runs with a wind-activated switch, it actually comes out to about the same as meters that are electrically activated.
You can get a "centerline thrust" multi-engine pilot's license, but I got mine in "standard" twins so I'd have no restrictions.
Regarding operating costs, the main variable is maintenance, followed perhaps by insurance (mine is about half the plane payment each month and I have a 20 year, reasonable-interest loan). On maintenance, if you buy one that's been kept up, maintenance is comparable to other twins; if not, it's $$$ time. The thing to watch for in Skymasters is that since they can be purchased cheaply, a number of people who have bought them over the years were not financially able to afford to maintain them right so they got run down; if you get one of these, you have a major expense getting them up to snuff and recurring costs thereafter. That's one of the reasons Skymasters have developed a reputation for costly maintenance, but the reputation is unwarranted if you buy one that's been properly maintained. The retractable gear needs thorough inspection and maintenance at annuals (and a close look from time to time otherwise). It's a complex gear system but works fine if maintained regularly and properly.
If you buy one, be sure to get an experienced, non-biased mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection for you - hard to over-emphasize that. There's nothing wrong with a plane maintained economically, including work by a qualified owner, if the work has been done reliably. As with any model, make sure the maintenance is proper and per the book, and not the hairpin, home remedy variety.
I have figured my operating costs roughly, and find that if I double the hourly fuel costs it comes out about right. That doesn't count annuals, which are separate and can run from $2000 to whatever, depending on what's due or found to be in need. I once had one that was 11,000 dollars. The usual annual for me tends to run between 3 and 5 thousand.
Learn the alternative sources from which you can obtain parts because anytime you have to go to Cessna you can figure paying from 2 to 5 times (or more) the cost, and that's no exaggeration. Most of us rely on alternatives for most parts and do fairly well in that respect. Cessna is a good company and has an excellent multi-engine tech support department, but for some reason they seem to believe in highway robbery when it comes to parts (you wonder if you really bought a Beechcraft when you get a quote from them).
If you live where you have choices, try to find a shop that is familiar with the aircraft, or at least the engines (they're the same as on the Seneca II, for example), and get a good mechanic who's likely to be around for a while, and be shamelessly kind to him/them. It'll pay off. I've found shops with good people who'll work with me and let me do some of the easier things when I have time - supervising as I go and inspecting/signing off when properly finished - and they also let me track down parts, which enables me to shop around and find the best sources. Some shops don't like that, so you have to work the best deal you can find.
I recommend getting service and parts manuals. I consider mine extremely helpful, not only to read up on things and learn about what the shop guys will allow me to help do, but to learn about the plane generally. It also allows me to not worry about dropping the aircraft off somewhere if I get stuck with a needed repair while on a trip. I know I can look things up, get part numbers, etc., and that I have a manual for the shop guys to look at.
Here are a couple of examples: Bungee in nosewheel steering broke. Cessna wanted $2300 for it. I got one (new surplus) for $350 from one of the other good supply sources. Big city (at KSLC in my case) mechanics didn't want to repair an area on my de-ice boots, said they were old enough I should think about replacing them. Well, they are old – in fact they’re the original boots which makes them around 35 years old! - but I wasn't sure they needed to be replaced yet. Found another mechanic at an airport 1/2 hour away who had experience with boots and did regular maintenance on them for other models. He inspected them, said he could repair a few small areas, possibly recoat, but in any event I should be able to get 5 - 10 more years from them. One shop away from home was checking the nosegear and thought they should dismantle and overhaul the whole thing to fix a small alignment problem. I read the service manual and noted the factory's recommendation (can't remember the details now) that you had to remove the nosegear system only from one point down in a fairly simple operation to fix almost all nosegear problems - including the alignment thing they were talking about; I saved a bundle the others would have charged to dismantle the whole complex nosegear system and overhaul it completely - which wasn't the proper answer to the needed repair as confirmed by my regular guys at home. Without the manuals I would have been dumb, fat, and poorer by probably somewhere around a $1000 or more.
For insurance, I suggest Skysmith International (800-743-1439) - best rates I've been able to find. On lenders, I found that they evaluate the plane's value - and especially engine time - in connection with your loan application. My plane had been well-maintained but had one engine over TBO. It was running fine, but the lender would only lend $22K on it with the run-out engine. If I agreed to get the engine overhauled as part of the purchase, they were willing to lend $55K. The O/H only cost $15K so you can see that there's a big consideration involved there. After you own it, if you are able to safely get more life beyond TBO, so much the better. But it's a big consideration when you buy. I got an AOPA loan from MBNA - best I could find.
I believe that all models are technically 6-seaters. In any event, as with most GA aircraft you can't load all 6 seats and luggage too, or you'll be over gross with any reasonable fuel load. In fact, you can't do that in a Skymaster at all since the "luggage" area is where the two back seats are! It's a small negative someone might bring up in reference to Skymasters, but since you can't have both it's moot to me. Also, bear in mind that the two rear seats are smaller or at least lower than the other four and are less comfortable for adults. I compromise by leaving the fifth seat in and the sixth one out, so that I can easily load baggage back there and/or a passenger if desired.
In practical terms, I don't consider the plane to be noisier than other twins. In my case I use an active noise-cancelling headset, so it doesn't matter; I also furnish headsets for all passengers. I guess if you got a DB meter there might be a slight difference between models, but average users of GA airplanes will find that they all tend to be noisy - twins in particular - and you're crazy to fly in any of them without some kind of hearing protection.
There are a lot of owners, mechanics, and others on this website who can give input, warning on certain things, and save you lots of time and money. It's a good, helpful group.
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