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To add a couple more thoughts: The probe was obviously stuck, since the minute I swapped wires to the front gage it read down in the cooled range (half a gage or more difference!). I.e., both gages read down in the normal range at that point - the range you'd expect after some cooling following shutdown.
Could that be something indicateive of wiring or do probes really get "stuck" and then unstack and maybe work fine after that?
And if I used the front engine gage as a guide, would this work:
1 - I warm up and run the engine to "normal" temp at idle.
2 - I see where the gage reads if it appears to be functioning OK for the present.
3 - I shutdown and install new probe.
4 - Restart and warm up briefly again.
5 - See if probe reads nominally "OK" as in matching reading of the old probe.
If it does then I assume the calibration is close enough and go on my way. If not, then the old probe may be bad and must be eliminated for comparison reasons. Then I might try seeing what it reads in the front engine using the same swap-around process and use it if it seems OK in general and reads OK at normal warmed-up temperature on the rear engine?
After all, as you say they are rather relative things anyway. What do you think?
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