[DrDave]

Jeff:

Somehow I missed your previous post. I'd be glad to help and share what I have learned. I had the same goal as you in keeping the original front faceplate. I think it's nice to ditch the thin piece of aluminum behind the faceplate. There was a bit of corrosion between that plate and the breakers. The first step is probably the sub-panel that the breakers mount to. The only thing that makes that a pain is the little locator holes for the breakers. As I mentioned in another post the shop that did mine has the whole thing laid out in their program. I'm sure we could have them cut one out. At this point we should probably have a few of them made. After the mounting panel is done it's a matter of ordering your new breakers. I'm very pleased with the 2TC2-x Klixon breakers. The 35 amp breakers are 3TC2-35.

The busbars are going to be straight forward for the three straight pieces. The jumpers will have to be hand formed. Call Charlene @ Quick Ship Metals at 888-334-2177 and order your copper materials. If you get a 6" x 12" piece you'll have plenty. Have Charlene cut your individual bars for you. She has a better shear in her shop than I have. I will have to measure my pieces again to give you the exact measurements. They will still have a bit of a twist from the shear but they straighten right out. Have her cut six individual pieces. Undoubtedly there will be some where your holes don't line up. You will be hand-drilling for each breaker.

What color do you want your sub-panel piece?

While you're at it make paper templates of the circuit panel enclosure. Take those templates to your local plastic place and have thin polycarbonate pieces cut to form an insulated circuit panel enclosure. If you don't have a favorite plastic place just mail them to me. I think mine cost $8.

This will be a fun project, don't be scared.

There are a few other tips that will help along the way. I will get you the part number for the avionics switch I like.

Report back.

Dave