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re regulators
There is nothing wrong with the existing system if it is in good shape.
For the cost of parts replace the diodes and capacitors on the front firewall.
2) make sure the switches (field) have low resistance. this includes field circuit breakers.
3) make sure all connections are tight.
4) test each alternator for full load capacity individually during flight.
5) make sure couplings are not slipping.
6) make sure the cables going to the battery are <copper>.
7) make sure battery is in good condition.
Recommend getting an EI volt metter and current shunts for future troubleshooting and monitoring.
To set the system up .
1) make sure battery in full charged condition.
2) use cart to start aircraft.
3) set regulator on front engine for exactly 28.4 volts. (check manual as there are two volt settings depending on regulator).
4) once stabalized disconnect front and do same with rear.
5) once rear is set then go back and parrellel both alternators.
6) check current on both alternators.... they should be the same. If not slightly increase or reduce rear regulator voltage (slowly) and wait for 15-30 seconds to stabalize.
7) There should be no flickering and the alternator outputs should be the same.
8) I adjusted mine and has remained perfectly stable for past TWO years and current balance is within 1 amp !!!!!
parrellel regulators from the 400 series aircraft work fine as well but why spend 300 dollars or more when in fact the problem lies elsewhere.
Cleaning the system up prior to changing regulators is mandatory anyway.
BTW run both engines around 12-1300 rpm for balancing. Double check higher rpms momentarily to insure the alternators are putting out at this rpm.
When you start the engines the battery is depeleted and the alternators are then charging the battery and throwing off the meter readings while charging occurs.
fyi
Bob
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