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#1
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windshield center post deletion STC
My new LP aeroplastics windshiled goes in this week (starting tomorrow). I have been emailing back and forth with Ray Torres of RT Aerospace about his STC that gets rid of the center post. Since the center post is 'part of the airframe', you need to use his STC to make bond the windshield to the frame.
he sells the whole STC kit for $600, or a lower cost option of $200 for the STC paperwork and right to use (and you fabricate your own metal plates and obtain hdw etc). 1) Has anyone else used his STC? 2) If so, did it make the install longer/shorter, and by how much? 3) Did you buy the kit, or fabricate your own metal plates? 4) Any advice on the value of going down this road (postivie or negative), especially based on the addiitonal 600 in cost? -Robert rmorris@agsi.us ________ HOW TO ROLL JOINTS Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM. |
#2
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What are the plates for? Why remove the center post if there's still plates that need to be installed?
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#3
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I debated this option when I installed my new glass in February. I have seen one plane with the mod. Jack Dick was at the SOAPA flyin last year in Kalamazoo and his N/A late model aircraft had this mod. The plate is at the bottom and center of the windshield. It is about 6 inches long from the fuselage up into the windshield. It really was a nice option as I sat in his front seat and looked out the windshield with a non-obstructed view. I guess I just didn't research out the option for my install. I was so concerned with mounting the windshield correctly and in a reasonable time frame that it just was not thought about. Today I look at my install and finish and have no regrets of leaving the center post in. Cessna really wanted to eliminate the center post in their design but did not take the time to re-engineer the design to be able to remove the post. With the utility class of the Skymaster it was a critical part of the structure for the types of use. I have some pictures of Jack's plane but don't remember if the mod is clearly visible or not. Anyway that's just me.
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Herb R Harney 1968 337C Flying the same Skymaster for 47 years |
#4
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sealant
My mechanic says he thinks he can fabricate the metal plates relatively inexpensively, so looking like that might be the deal.
On sealants, can different folks tell me what they used as far as sealants when replacing thier windshields and pros cons (ie do you wish you chose something different or very happy). My plane is a Turbo and I will be taking it into the low flight levels, so want to make sure I have a sealant that will hold up. rmorris@agsi.us ________ HERBAL GRINDER Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM. |
#5
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Here is what you want to use to seal in the windshield. This is good stuff and will do the job. Once the windshield is in you can then tape off the window to airframe (about 3/8") and use this same stuff to create a calk bead. Looks perfect. This ProSeal is what Cirrus uses to install all windows (beech too)
Take a look in the SM, you can change the rivets to screws on the cuff the holds the windshield in place. Makes it a lot easier to install. I have some photos if you need. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
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Herb R Harney 1968 337C Flying the same Skymaster for 47 years |
#6
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sealant
How much of this stuff did you buy for your job (the pint or quart).
So you used this for the fill in the large cracks stuff (my mechanic had recommended the 3m 'chalk') as well as the bead on the outside? Is that what Cirrus does? How long does it take to cure? What p/n screws did you use? I saw something in the service manual about using screws for a re-install, but thought rivets would look better. Yes, I would love to see pics. ________ Ford Mt75 Transmission Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM. |
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