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#1
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Maybe try replacing the circuit breaker first as it's cheaper than the second option would be the pump motor. Doesn't sound like a gear or door issue. Did you have a heavy electrical load at the time?
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Herb R Harney 1968 337C Flying the same Skymaster for 47 years |
#2
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Quote:
Yes to new circuit breaker!! I like cheap fixes IF they work! TC
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TC 1977 Reims Built F337G CYFD |
#3
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Motor
Hi Tom,
I am not an expert on the Skymaster, but an AME/A&P for quite a few years, so I will offer a couple other spots to look at that are even cheaper than a CB. If the gear pops its CB, it means that it is drawing a higher current as it works against electrical resistance, and will not be dependant on any other system. Things that can cause it to work harder to heat up and pop the CB: - corrosion on connector (or bad connection) - corrosion in a crimp of a connecter - bad or loose ground (I always check grounds first - it is the simplest and most often the offending party). Check the wires on the motor and at the CB. It may take a bit of work, but is cheaper than replacing any parts. I think you already filled the system too - so that would eliminate any pump cavitation issues (I am really stabbing in the dark here, as I am not well studies on the power pack). Anyway, hopefully some of this may help. Jeff |
#4
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Im a big fan of punting the 40+ year old circuit breakers.
Like Herb said, it's a good place to start. I've found a bunch of CB's that were no bueno. Punt the lot of them. Go to the Klixon's. The emergency proceedures in the operators manual specifically state to pull the CB if you have to. The Cessna CB's don't allow that. Leighton. |
#5
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I like the idea of being able to disable circuits as I wish and I too noticed how most of my CBs do not currently allow this. I will look into upgrading to the Klixon's for sure. Thanks!
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TC 1977 Reims Built F337G CYFD |
#6
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Gear Issues Continue...
After my initial gear issues things cleared up for a couple of flights but today the problem came back. Today when I went to put the gear down I popped the breaker near what should have been the end of the gear down cycle (12-15 seconds in). Like the previous time I tried cycling the gear but this time I could not get a green light and was not able to reset the breaker right away in order to cycle UP even. Eventually I manually pumped the gear DOWN and got the green light and landed fine. When I look at the mirrors the gear appeared to be down and locked. To me it seems like the gear cycle may in fact be complete and perhaps one of the switches that tell the system that the gear is down and locked might not be functioning which would cause the motor to continue running, heat up and overload the circuit. This is my current best guess.
Obviously this little snag goes to the very top of my list of things to fix!
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TC 1977 Reims Built F337G CYFD |
#7
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Low Voltage ?
Could it be caused by low voltage in the system creating higher amp draw by the power pack ?
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