Upper wing panel removal

[wslade2]

Got a vent tube problem and going to have to get to where vent tube enters tank. This means removal of upper wing panels. Screws are corroded and resistive to removal. Tips and tricks appreciated.

Wing will have to be supported. Any rig designs for wing support also appreciated. Planning on a vertical “box” with carpet sling.

Going to take this opportunity to install CiES fuel probes. Heads up on that appreciated too.

[SkyMac]

Hi there

For me I always use an acro-prop with a board on top covered in a piece of carpet, I line this up with rib 2nd in from tip and then adjust to take up weight (always have approx 50ltrs left in the wing if not removing inner tank). This works well as recently I had to remove tanks for 5 year SIDS inspection.

As far as removing the screws, when doing the ground up restoration every wing panel screw had to be removed with easy-outs, this took me 40 plus hours over a few weeks. I found the craftsman easy-out kit the best, it came with 4 sizes and I always used two, I broke quite a few so I have about 8 kits with some missing, (luckily I was in the states a lot and I became Sears best tool customer over a few years). Doing it this way takes time but worked the best as you didn’t damage the thread.



Aircraft Spruce have new structural screws, anytime I take the wing covers off, new screws go back in, pedantic I know but for under $80 for both wings, money well spent in my personal view.

Brings back many a good memory of the resto.

Dave

[SkyMac]

A photo of what I used. Used the drill bit end to drill into each screw, then reserved the bit and inserted the threaded end with the cordless drill in reverse, have a low setting on the drill, don’t forget to spray the day before with Inox or some sort of lubricant.

Dave

[N337RT]

Easy out should be the last resort. I usually have 99% luck using my river gun and this: (mine is home made, but you can order or make something similar)

Shake N Break Air Impact Screw Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BHJ7JM...M3EWGJ2KNCF0FB

The problem with this is you need to know how to do it. If you have too much pressure or go too hard you will damage something. I use my rivet gun, which has a very nice variable trigger but same results can be had with lowering air pressure.

[wslade2]

Agree with the new screws and planned on that. It's cheap improvement. In passing you mention important point: structural screws. The temptation is stainless steel (to remove corrosion issues) but the spec is for a steel screw. Stainless is softer metal.

Going to try one of these pneumatic screw extractors (see links below, can get from aircraft spruce and others). A friend who is in maintenance at FedEx says they use it on "big iron". Has not used it on light airframes though. Second link is video shows one in use on a car. Making sure to use riveter as there is ability to vary power rather than "full on". But I am saving this for last resort trying in progressive fashion manual first, then small electric impact then this. Of course lots of "penetrating" oil. I'll crack the screw to provide a gap and then penetrating oil.

Any recommendations on penetrating oil? A little recent research showed there really isn't much difference among them. PB Blaster has been my go to usually.

Have also invested in screw head paint cutters. Included a link for that. Also from aircraft spruce.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...rewremover.php

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMN_4-1nci4

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...tcutteran8.php

[wslade2]

oops, post by N337RT popped in while I was constructing my message about the pneumatic screw remover. Thanks! So there is experience of use on our airframe in the ranks. I was told same thing by my friend to set for lowest actuating air pressure. "Rivet" against wood first to get trigger feel then take some screws out of something before your airplane. Plan on practicing with it before first use.

PS-Eastwood had the lowest price.

[N337RT]

If there is any question about stripping the heads, start with the pneumatic extractor. Works much easier when the head isn’t stripped, usually barely takes any effort. Just apply pressure down and have fun.

[SteveG]

An impact screw driver will also likely solve the problem. Their advantage is that they simultaneously seat the bit into the screw head and apply a torque to the screw. One only needs to break the fastener loose with a couple of degrees of rotation, then leaning on a manual or motorized driver will turn the screw out without the bit walking up out of the head. And they are a lot less expensive than a rivet gun plus torque tool if you don't already have the gun in your tool box.

https://www.harborfreight.com/impact...ase-37530.html

https://www.mcmaster.com/impact-scre...crewdrivers-5/

[N337RT]

Some of those require a lot of force to actually work… something about swinging a hammer around a plane I can’t get behind.

[wslade2]

I can confirm that the screw buster is killer! By my 3rd screw I had broken off a tip trying to do it by hand. By my 6th screw starting to round out a head leading to a drill out. So I stopped before trying too hard. Cleaned it with a dental pick and the screw buster took it right out.

Anything where the tip doesn't fit good, be sure to use a dental pick to clean the screw. Any question at all stop and don't round out the slots. Go straight to the screw buster. That will likely be a fair number of them.

I set the pressure at 65 psi and used a central pneumatic rivet gun with progressive trigger. Light touch on the trigger did it. Had good control, minimal vibration without beating anything up.

I gave them all a shot of PB Blaster in advance hoping that any amount possible got in and the more that got in could definitely tell the better. I just cracked them to start and went around again with PB Blaster after they were opened up.
Had all the screws done in hours instead of days.

Friend suggested new screws go in with fuel lubricant on the threads; easier to come out in the future, some corrosion protection and the lubricant is resistant to any spilled fuel during fill up.

[Dan schultz]

You can also put a little valve grinding compound on the bit, which helps also.

Dan
N67S

[Joes]

Irwin Impact Bit - never broke a tip off one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bosch 12v Impact Driver- variable speed impact used the last 20 yrs 10.8v https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[wslade2]

Agreed. My Bosch is also on the job and use it for finishing up taking the screws out; plan on it for driving them back in. Does alot for it's size.

[cfc1234]

https://www.yardstore.com/brutus-scr...tor-1-4-to-3-8

Pretty pricey but used by many professional mechanics. It’s “The Shizzle”. Lol.
Also known as a “Johnson Bar”.

https://youtu.be/NXkl9gPuGgw

Frank