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  #1  
Unread 04-11-24, 02:27 PM
Ryann Ryann is offline
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Unbolting front turbocharger

Hi all,

Has anyone here been through the process to pull the front turbocharger? If so, is there any easier way to get the turbo off the mounting bracket rather than messing with the crankcase through-bolts to unbolt the bracket?

The service manual in section 10 just boils that step down to "7. Remove hardware attaching front mounting bracket (7) to engine", but on closer examination, one of the bolts holding the mounting bracket is one of the crankcase through-bolts. Accessing the nut on the opposite side of the crankcase is buried behind a whole crapload of stuff. Tried turning the nut on the turbo bracket end of the through-bolt incase we might luck out, and alas, the through-bolt turned with the nut, at which point we stopped to regroup before proceeding. It looks like the main thing preventing unbolting the turbo from the mounting bracket in-place is trying to get the rear bolt out of the oil inlet fitting, but it's substantially blocked by the mounting bracket itself.

Did anyone figure out a way to unbolt the turbo from the mounting bracket while the mounting bracket stays on the engine, rather than messing with one of the crankcase through-bolts to remove the turbo and bracket together?
Attached Images
File Type: png turbo1.png (172.8 KB, 1082 views)
File Type: png turbo2.png (114.0 KB, 1120 views)
File Type: jpg turbo3.jpg (115.7 KB, 1085 views)
File Type: jpg turbo4.jpg (155.6 KB, 1073 views)
File Type: jpg turbo5.jpg (101.0 KB, 1109 views)

Last edited by Ryann : 04-11-24 at 05:38 PM.
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  #2  
Unread 04-12-24, 09:52 AM
Dan schultz Dan schultz is offline
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Ryann

Wow you ingested something bad that destroyed the impeller of the turbo. you have to take that nut off the through stud. You can use an extremely long extension and the 9/16inch socket on the left side of the engine to hold the nut on that side as you remove the nut on the RH side, then remove the bolt that goes into the RR engine mount. Your through stud is significantly longer than mine, i do not have a spacer on mine. When i had mine off last fall the ear was broken for the through stud, added a reinforcement then put back together.

Bracket 4 has to also come loose from the rear accessory housing i use snap on swivel socket for that, 1/2 inch if i remember correctly. my aircraft is a 74 so both side panels are able to be removed, those early aircraft that do not have removable sides what a PITA that would be.

Dan
N67S
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  #3  
Unread 04-12-24, 10:02 AM
Dan schultz Dan schultz is offline
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Oh, and be careful of that inline check valve, that is one expensive small part.

Dan
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  #4  
Unread 04-12-24, 05:39 PM
B2C2 B2C2 is offline
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I had similar damage caused by the magnet that holds the emergency air inlet door closed popping loose and rattling around in the turbo inlet area. Really annoying. Make sure you check this if you have a turbo for correct attachment
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  #5  
Unread 04-12-24, 06:18 PM
Ryann Ryann is offline
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Dan - Thanks for the insight! Out of curiosity, why does bracket #4 need to come loose? I was able to get all the exhaust flange bolts out with that bracket still in place, although that back left bolt is an "adventure". At this point, the turbo is just hanging on bracket #7.

B2C2 - I was thinking of making a shrine with the alternate air door magnet displayed alongside the turbo compressor wheel and surrounded by flowers and mementos of our times together.
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File Type: jpg alt-air-door-magnet.jpg (150.9 KB, 1026 views)

Last edited by Ryann : 04-12-24 at 06:44 PM.
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  #6  
Unread 04-12-24, 09:37 PM
Dan schultz Dan schultz is offline
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Bracket 4, good question, forgot I took that one off to when I changed the rear accessory case to an aluminum one, yes that pesky magnet.

Dan
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