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#1
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Sealing exhaust
Having a devil of a time sealing my exhaust at the cylinders and all the joints. I am using blow proof gaskets.
What has worked good for you? Dan 67S 
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#2
05-12-23, 07:41 AM
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So here is what I am trying.
Got some 3/8 inch lead tape weight from Dicks sporting goods, used for your golf game. Wrapped the joints with it, then used red 750 degree RTV on the clamps. New blow proof gaskets RA970, cleaned the head, also used 750 degree red RTV on the gaskets. Brass nuts keep loosening up, switching to some cinch lock nuts, will see how those work on my next trip. https://dualmachinecorp.com/aerospac...aft-lock-nuts/ Dan Last edited by Dan schultz : 05-12-23 at 07:46 AM. Reason: Nut page
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#4
05-12-23, 09:06 PM
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Doing annual, exhaust leaks at cylinders, visual. Hooked up vacuum cleaner in reverse up the tail pipe, sprayed every joint with soap and water, minor bubbles are normal, mine was too excessive, manifold pressure was ok, just don’t like leaks, brass nuts continue to loosen up on cylinders, hopefully the Klincher nuts work better.
Dan Last edited by Dan schultz : 05-12-23 at 09:08 PM.
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#6
05-13-23, 03:16 PM
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Dan, those joints are supposed to leak at cold temperatures. The short stack and the muffler are interference fit and the clamp should be installed in a way that after the pipes are hot they will not leak and if they leak even slightly the clamps are there to block any torching or fire streaming to damage other parts, hoses, lines etc..
You would not need any glue, tape or anything between the clamps and the pipes. Actually those you put in will burn off at 1600 degrees and may cause fire hazards. I hope this helps.
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#7
05-13-23, 10:10 PM
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No muffler on the P models, will let you know how the Klincher nuts work.
Dan
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#8
05-18-23, 04:27 PM
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Gonna move on to stainless steel tape.
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