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  #1  
Unread 08-26-10, 02:41 PM
Hank Hank is offline
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Had the same exact problem, cleaning and adjusting the up lock switch on each of the main gear cured it, and the problem has gone away.
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  #2  
Unread 08-27-10, 08:09 AM
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Roger Roger is offline
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Buy some electronic cleaner in a spay can (it's like brake cleaner, only you can use it on electronics). Pump the doors open and spray all of your door switches and locks. Then blow them off with air. That should more than likely fix it. I am however surprised that you have to ask the tower if your doors are closed. You should instal a mirror or two so you can always be sure. Good Luck
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  #3  
Unread 08-28-10, 07:16 AM
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hharney hharney is offline
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Let's see, the aircraft in question is a 1968? Is that correct Robert? Tony, are you referring to the electric power pack? The 68 is gear pump on the accessory case of the front engine. Just to keep things straight let's make sure which aircraft model we are troubleshooting. It sounds like the main gear switches are not functioning properly or have a short, crack, etc. That's usually the case as Hank pointed out.

I would not use the E pump for the testing while on jacks. The E pump is not for continuous use. I agree that it is a good idea to at least lower the gear once in a while with the E pump but retracting it will not give you the same operation as the gear driven pump on the engine. You don't need a mule to do this function. Contact Owen Bell and he has a socket bit that is the female to the gear pump. Simply remove the pump from the front engine and use an electric powered drill to transition the gear. It works great. And you will own the tool for the rest of the time to swing your gear for each annual. It's well worth the money.

See my video on you tube http://www.337skymaster.com/messages...ead.php?t=2656
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  #4  
Unread 08-28-10, 11:46 AM
Tony
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I'm referring to the switch on the hydraulic power pack.

Last edited by Tony : 08-28-10 at 11:55 AM.
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  #5  
Unread 08-29-10, 04:06 PM
Tony
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Here's a pic from the 1965-1969 parts catalog. The switch I'm referring to is #16.
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  #6  
Unread 09-03-10, 08:13 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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2200 later and still not working

First, Herb - wish i had seen your post a couple of days back - I would have easily bought one from owen, or paid to rent yours. I was leery the entire time of them using the hand pump,

In any case, they t-shot (17 hrs of charged labor) and said it was a leaking door actuator, two leaking hoses, and a leak around the hand pump. OK, fix em all I said, but please remember that I have to fly out on Sunday Oct 5 for my yearly trip to NM - small window to go, so need plane ready (said this to them a week and half ago when i made original post).

OK, parts came in yesterday, they 'notified' me the plane was ready by sending the invoice via email around 4 yesterday. I went out to test fly it today at noon. same problem - landed and mechanic said I needed to cycle the gear a few more times, might be an air bublle, so up in the air I go again. cycle a bunch of times, same issue. land, line guy pushes it back into maint hangar, sole mechanic sits in a nother airplane 'buttoning it up' for the next hour and half - despite my pleas to make sure my plane is fixed. Fianlly comes over about 4:20 and looks, then goes in offices to look at schematics, then comes out again. i keep metnioning the switches, per above posts - as I had previous week when I saw the posts. He cleaned off the main up switches, and slightly adjusted the nose up switch and cleaned it off, and told me to go fly it again to see. I did, and then he closed the doors and left while I was in the air 9needless to say the problem still exists). Charlotte Monroe Air Center, Neil is the mechanic and owner Mike Dickery aslo aware of situation, in case you all think they should be rewarded for this stellar customer service attitude.

at this point, the problem still exists, and my daughter is waiting in Atlanta for me to pick her up and fly out to NM for my whopping 5-day vacation. Told the main facility would be closed Monday for Labor Day.

So, they have my check for $200, which is mostly labor, and my problem still exists, and no way to get it fixed and make my trip that I can see.

Good news, tried topping it off again after the 30 or so cycles during 3 test flights, and it is still full - so the leaks are fixed

he did say they cycled it with the hand pump on the jacks and it worked fine in both directions.

At least if it is failing, it is in the up cycle, not down - thatt's the bright spot.

-Robert
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:07 PM.
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  #7  
Unread 09-03-10, 10:30 PM
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Roger Roger is offline
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As I mentioned before, just go buy some electric cleaner and spray the switches yourself. Blow them off with air.

I don't know this for a fact but I have always felt that the reason the doors might close on jacks vs in the air, is because in flight when the doors are open they probably create a bit of a vacuum in the area of the gear bays.

This negative pressure could be drawing the gear back out/down and away from the locks util the doors are closed. Of course if the gear doesn't seat well enough to activate the switches, the doors will never close, therein aggravating the problem.

Just a thought on why it may only happen in the air.
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  #8  
Unread 09-03-10, 10:35 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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switches cleaned

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
As I mentioned before, just go buy some electric cleaner and spray the switches yourself. Blow them off with air.

I don't know this for a fact but I have always felt that the reason the doors might close on jacks vs in the air, is because in flight when the doors are open they probably create a bit of a vacuum in the area of the gear bays.

This negative pressure could be drawing the gear back out/down and away from the locks util the doors are closed. Of course if the gear doesn't seat well enough to activate the switches, the doors will never close, therein aggravating the problem.

Just a thought on why it may only happen in the air.
I had him clean the switches today, don't think he used electrical cleaner but some sort of solvent, then saw him blow them off and check with an ohmeter. said the switches were fine, but I went back and test flew - same symptom.

So, not sure it's not the switches, but don't think so on the door switches (mains and nose). He visually examind the microswitch on the powerpack last week, but not sure he did much else on that one - my money is there, since it seems to match previous posts as a culprit, and one of the few things not touched yet.
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:07 PM.
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