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#1
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Good advice, it will be done. Where did you source the lines? Has anyone used Precision Hose, PHT, in Tulsa? They indicate that they have a complete kit. I am searching the logs now to see if any hoses have been replaced just as a good exercise. Also checking the Service Manual for requirements, not real clear.
Installing the FM oil filters adaptors, eliminate always cleaning those annoying screens. Also found issues with the rear motor mounts. One is actually cracked and crumbling. New ones on order. My front engine has plagued me with an oil leak for several years now. Nothing huge but very discouraging. I have looked and looked but haven't been able to really zero in on a obvious source. My AI said that some push rod tubes showed a little wet, could be but I keep thinking there is something on the rear of the front engine that is culprit. What about the alternator? Has anyone had a bad leak around that unit? When I fly 2 - 3 hours and stop I have a couple of small puddles of oil on the front tire and ground. I don't use that much oil in the engine. Maybe 1 - 2 quart for between oil changes (25 hrs). Is that too much? I have 1500 hours on the engine. Well, I didn't brave the trip yesterday but will be working on it today. I am ordering all the glass today from Great Lakes Aero in Flint, MI. I will be talking to Precision Hose and consulting with Whelen on their LED / strobe position wing tip lights. Has anyone had these installed? Whelen says that I will need to get field approval. It would be a lot easier if I can show another aircraft that has been approved through the FSDO. Even if it is not a Skymaster let me know if you know of anything. This LED technology is amazing. I can't imagine not allowing something like this. It has to be safer (greater visibility for other aircraft), uses a lot less amps, come on get with the program here. Whelen should be more proactive on this.
__________________
Herb R Harney 1968 337C Flying the same Skymaster for 47 years 
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#2
12-09-08, 09:00 AM
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I have used Precision Hose before and they were very good. They even sent two free replacement hoses that were wrong on their list when I supplied them the correct details.
Just a note, when you replace the main gear downlock hoses, make sure of their position and that they are not twisted. The downlock remains unpressurized until the gear moves it at which point it pressurizes down and locked. You don't want it to pressurize early by being forced by the hose pressure. It sounds like a geat job. Where have your folks sourced all the plastic panels? Please take and post all the pictures you can so we can all enjoy. A full description of replacing the windshield would be appreciated. Are you replacing the wing tip light covers? If so, can you let me know a good source as I need mine replaced. Regards - Dave
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#3
12-09-08, 10:02 AM
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On the first Skymaster I owned, N1873M, way back in 1975, there was an oil leak in the rear engine. It was the gasket for the alternator which is mounted on the rear of that engine. It was rather simple to repair however. On the rear engine there is an inspection plate on the rear bulkhead that opens directly to the alternator. Check the gasket on the alternator if your oil loss is minimal as that is what I found.
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#4
12-09-08, 05:21 PM
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Pht
Quote:
I used PHT this summer for the rear engine hose kit. Kim Geyer (frequent poster on this board and overall nice guy) pointed me in their direction. Overall my experience is mixed. It took them a little longer to get my kit shipped after I ordered it than what they had promised, but then they shipped it overnight at their cost - so a wash on that point. When I handed the whole kit to my a&p, he said that several hoses were wrong. I quickly emailed their sales rep and told him the lenths and connections (as measured by my a&p) for the 4 or so replacement hoses and asked they overnight them to me - see point #1 about thier initial delay which caused me other scheduling challenges. They said they couldn't ship out that day, but would make them up the next day and ship out to me. OK, sounds like a plan to me (although it then delayed me leaving TX where I was now grounded with a half-done houise sawp out). The new hoses arrived and they fit nicely. So I took the wrong hoses and shipped them back that same very day, at my expense. Thinking, 'wow this finally worked out'....then a few weeks later I looked at my credit card statement and saw that they charged me almost $600. MANY emails later, they finally credited me back about $300. Still don't know why I had to pay them $300 extra, when they had sold me a complete kit. They had even verified my serial number when quoting me the kit. I will probably use them again, but make sure I have a better written trail on responsibility if any hoses in their 'kit' don't fit. Also, I noticed on several other posts to this board that others have used Sacramento Sky Ranch for thier hoses. Finally - you will probably consider the firesleeving option on your hoses, so I'll share that part of the story. After reading many articles and posts - I decided to firesleeve all the hoses for my rear engine. This cost more, as the hoses in the PHT kit only firesleeve the ones that came that way from the factory. No problem, I decided to pay the extra for a little more peace of mind. You have two firesleeving options - the orange bulky firesleev which is attached by clamps, or the brown firesleev which is basically cooked on. I wanted the brown one, but the PHT rep talked me into the orange ones - saying they were cheaper, faster to make (see my scheduling issue above), and worked just as well. After they arrived, I had lots of issues during the install due to the now much larger size of the hoses with the orange sleeve versus the originals they replaced. Was told by the a&p that the install would have gone much smoother with teh brown cooked on sleeves. Also, understand that the Sac Sky Ranch folks give a lifetime guarantee on the brown sleeved hoses they make. Hope this all helps, Robert ________ Ford performance vehicles history Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 11:59 AM.
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#5
12-09-08, 06:47 PM
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Herb,
I chased an oil leak on my front engine for several months. I finally took the airplane to my FBO and their mechanic found it first try. It was leaking through the seal around the alternator shaft.
__________________
Jim Stack Richmond, VA
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#7
12-10-08, 08:32 AM
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Gear Hoses
Hi Herb,
I to had the seal on the alternator in my front engine leaking. They fixed that and the push rod seals on my bird also were leaking. As for the gear hoses, my A&P purchased them from Cessna, because he said on that item Cessna price was close to after market price and he always got the right hoses. On other hoses he purchases after market. Good luck, Dale
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#8
12-10-08, 11:49 AM
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This is fun!
Plastic panels? Are you referring to the interior? Those wonderful, high quality, decorative, fashionable luxury interior parts from Cessna? Stay tuned because we did not source any new plastic for this job, details coming.
Here is a start on the windshield. It was removed last night and actually was very easy to come out. Now if it just goes back in with a minimal amount of frustration I will be very pleased. I ordered all the glass yesterday and the company talked me into the grey tinted windshield. I know, several of you said not to go with the tint and stay with clear but my original was tinted and was just fine. This company sells all the glass to Cirrus, Mooney and Champion and all windshields are grey tint with solar control. Along with Piper and Cessna. I hope I am not disappointed but that's just what I did. The pilot and co-pilot windows are also grey tint and solar control and the rear are just grey tint because under the wing the solar control is not needed. I will probably drive to Flint Friday and pick up the whole window kit. They have the Cessna u-channel also. Last night was another beautiful drive to Kzoo. 32 degrees and rain all the way down and then about 2 hours later it changed to snow with 29 degrees. The trip home at 11 PM was white knuckle. Well it's back down tonight to meet with the AI again. We'll start prepping the hull for the windows. Most everything is ready but around the windshield will still require some clean up. I have to remove the door window yet too. Trying to remove those little pins in the hinges has been a challenge. Once those items are finished we are ready for new glass all the way around. After the windshield is out, the interior tech's will work on the glare shield to match the new interior. A lot easier to access this glare shield with the windshield out. The glare shield will be wrapped in leather or ultra suede to match the new components in re-upholstery process. I have seen some of the glare shields that Bill has done and they are really nice. Should be a big improvement. I ordered the certified foam sound control insulation to go on the rear bulkhead and ceiling. I don't want to try to deal with the fiberglass garbage that Cessna used up in the headliner. It's going to be tedious to install but it's only time. (well money too, that stuff is expensive) I will use Pliobond (thanks GMAS for this) for adhering the foam to the interior skin. The patches that we have been discussing with the corrosion behind them, once removed and the corrosion treated with Alumaprep, Alodine and Chromate paint, a piece of the foam will be placed in that area to substitute for the linoleum patches that were there. They are not lead like some thought them to be but just a cheap linoleum (thanks Cessna) that contains salts and when the adhesive comes loose allows moisture to sneak in and ............. yep corrosion. The patches are there to keep the vibration down on the skin of the hull. Too much vibration and you could start to see fractures or cracks. The foam will absorb that vibration. So if you remove the patches make sure you replace it with something like the foam. ***Thanks to gmas for all the great ideas and tips*** Well that's about it for now, my second project is a Twinco with a gear motor issue. Love this unemployment stuff :-)
__________________
Herb R Harney 1968 337C Flying the same Skymaster for 47 years Last edited by hharney : 01-07-09 at 03:32 PM.
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#9
12-10-08, 12:07 PM
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Herb,
Before you drill any holes in the new windshield, make sure you are using the special 4 flute bit. When I replaced my windshield 15 years ago, LP Aeroplastics made sure I knew I needed the special bit to drill for the thermometer. I think the issue is that the regular 3 flute bits (which also have a different cutting edge angle) can cause the windshield to crack around the edge of the hole you are drilling.
__________________
Jim Stack Richmond, VA
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